{"id":3760,"date":"2021-02-26T11:00:14","date_gmt":"2021-02-26T10:00:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/?p=3760"},"modified":"2021-03-02T09:59:34","modified_gmt":"2021-03-02T08:59:34","slug":"how-to-paint-salamanders-space-marines-warhammer-40k","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/how-to-paint-salamanders-space-marines-warhammer-40k\/","title":{"rendered":"How to paint Salamanders – Space Marines – Warhammer 40k"},"content":{"rendered":"
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In the previous article we saw how to paint an intense green armor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In this tutorial we will see how to paint Salamanders from Warhammer 40k<\/strong> , following the previous tutorial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Let’s Start!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Miniature customization<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

As you can see, this miniature has been personalized with special bits. For this unique look I have chosen to use the Spellcrow<\/strong> bits. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The shoulder pads<\/strong> that I have used: “ Salamanders \/ Dragons Knights Shoulder Pads (ver. 1)<\/a> “<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the other hand, the tabard<\/strong> that I have used has been the one that comes in the kit Salamander \/ Dragons – Tabards<\/a> .<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Intense Green Armor<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

We will start from the previous tutorial, below you can see the result. If you want to review or remember how to paint this green armor, don’t forget to visit the last tutorial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Base colors<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

First of all, apply Heavy Red Game Color<\/a> (72.141) to the shoulder pad<\/strong> and the tabard<\/strong> with dragon scales. The other shoulder pad, gun and pockets<\/strong> are painted using Black Model Color<\/a> (70.950).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Second, the purity seal<\/strong> is painted using Red Model Color<\/a> (70.926) and Bone White Game Color<\/a> (72.034) for cloth \/ paper strips.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dark Aluminum Metal Color<\/a> (77.703<\/a>) is used to paint the metal parts of the weapon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A mixture of Gold Metal Color<\/a> (77.725) with a little Copper Metal Color<\/a>(77.710) is made to achieve a reddish gold, which is applied to the imperialis symbol on the chest of the power armor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Washes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Once we have finished with the base colors, we will start with the washes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Umber Wash – Game Wash<\/a> (73.203) is applied to all red areas (purity seal and shoulder pad). Also, Sepia Game Wash<\/a> (73.200) is used on the purity seal cloth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sepia Game Wash<\/a> (73.200) is applied to the golden part of the chest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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On the metallic areas of the weapon, a mixture of Black Game Wash<\/a> (73.201) and Thinner Medium<\/a> (70.524) is applied. You can use black wash directly, but if you want to apply it in a more controlled way and that the metallic color is not too dark, it is a good option.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Edge Highlighting<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Edge Highlighting is done on all the black parts (weapon and pockets) using Neutral Gray Model Color<\/a> (70.992).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The edges are then painted using White Model Color<\/a> (70.951) to achieve greater contrast.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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For the purity seal cloth, Bone White Game Color<\/a> (72.034) is used, followed by a little Bone Model Color<\/a> (70.918) on some edges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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To illuminate the stamp of the purity seal, a first edge highlighting is made using Red Model Color<\/a> (70.926), and then Squid Pink Game Color<\/a> (72.013) is used, applying it only to the upper areas of the stamp. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For the metallic color of the weapon, a mixture of Silver Model Color<\/a> (70.997) and White Model Color<\/a> (70.951) is made. This mixture is applied on the edges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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For the golden area of the chest Gold Metal Color<\/a> (77.725) is used. Just apply a few gold colored dots on the corners and edges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dragon scales<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The lighting of the dragon scales<\/strong> will be done in several steps, where the tone and intensity will be increased. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As I mentioned before, these dragon scales (the shoulder pad and the tabard), are spellcrow bits<\/a> .<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Firstly<\/strong>, Heavy Red Game Color<\/a> (72.141) is applied. Remember to avoid painting on the dark areas or recesses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In each new step, a smaller area of the scales will be painted<\/strong> to achieve a gradient. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In this second step<\/strong>, Bloody Red Game Color<\/a> (72.010) is used.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In the third step, Bloody Red Game Color<\/a> (72.010) is mixed with Vermilion Model Color<\/a> (70.909) and applied to a smaller area of the scales.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

To finish with the dragon scales<\/strong>, apply the maximum point of light in the upper area of the scales, using Orange Red Model Color<\/a> (70.910).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I recommend using a wet palette<\/strong> throughout this process, it will simplify your work and you can paint better. In my case I use the RedGrassGames<\/a> wet palette, which in my opinion is the best on the market Here you can see the colors that I have used in this process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can buy it in the official Web<\/a> and also in Frikland<\/a> (if you are from Spain).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Final details<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

To finish with the miniature, we only need to add a lava base according to our Salamanders. If you want to know how to create these lava bases, you can read the previous tutorial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On the other hand, the eyes\/lenses of the helmet will be painted, but this will be explained in detail in another specific tutorial. Finally, the Salamanders decal will be placed on the black shoulder pad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Result<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Here you can see the final result after these steps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n\n

<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the previous article we saw how to paint an intense green armor. In this tutorial we will see how to paint Salamanders from Warhammer 40k , following the previous tutorial. Let’s Start!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":3741,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[202,203],"tags":[281,282,266,268,280,279],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3760"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3760"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3760\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3933,"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3760\/revisions\/3933"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3741"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3760"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3760"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/pintureando.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3760"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}